Circularity - the New Buzzword

By Johanna Masket, co-founder bgood collective

Circularity is about keeping stuff out of landfills.  It is more than just about recycling.  It starts with how you design, the textiles that are used, your manufacturing process, supply chain as well as customer usage and post usage.  It is the transformation from a “make buy use waste” dynamic to a “make buy use recycle reuse”.

Let us start with the numbers

First, it is important to note that 85% of textiles in the US are discarded as trash and only 15% go through recycling or a circular business model.  In the US, this number equates to 11,000 tons of textiles in landfills or 22 million pounds or a not so fun number 4,400 elephants. 

The 15% that is not thrown out with the trash is broken down further. Half is used in other industries for rags, stuffing, insulation, etc.  Almost half is either reused, resold, or recycled.  However, currently only about 1% of items are recycled into fibers used in new garments. In addition, a small proportion still ends up in a landfill as it cannot be reused.

Now, you may be asking yourself, why are only 15% of garments saved from landfills?

First, most companies are not designing with a circular model in mind.  Second, although there are more collection schemes for garments developing in the US, it is still not widespread and hassle free.  Third, recycling has its own challenges with the need for more widespread innovation. Finally, regulation is a key component to this, but the US is not moving nearly as fast as its European brethren.  Given the political climate, we would not expect any real movement in the short term.

You may be asking how brands can make a difference and where to start?

To make this happen, reverse your thinking.  Start by contemplating the garments end of life. Think differently about how you make clothing.  The idea of creating disposable fashion needs to change.  Circularity and longevity need to be part of designer vocabulary.  The choice of fabrics, the ability to easily break them down and recycle them needs to be a consideration.  Also, the thought process around choosing more durable fabrics or creating a system for easy repairs needs to be used.  Brands need to create new revenue streams like rental and retail instead of just focusing on selling more stuff.  Finally, keep track of innovation.  There are lot of things happening in the recycling, sorting, and collection space.

Finally, you may be asking why is this important?

First, the fashion industry is moving in this direction but not fast enough.  94 fashion companies which only represent 12.5% of the global industry signed the 2020 Global Fashion Agenda Commitment. The commitment requires the implementation of circular design strategies, increase in garments collected, increase in resale and increase in items made from recycled fibers.

Second, consumers are expecting even more post Covid.  In a recent McKinsey Survey, 2 out of 3 consumers indicated that sustainability is more important than ever.

Third, investors are investing more into companies with strong environmental, social and governance focus. And, sustainability indices are outperforming the market. 

The fashion industry needs to get going.  Consumers are shifting their expectations.  Companies that have sustainable practices in place are performing better.  Only a small percent is moving forward.  What is the industry waiting for?

Learn more at bgoodcollective.com